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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.